The New Wine Review Weekly: March 8, 2024 (copy 02)

THE NEW WAVE WINEMAKERS WHO ARE REINVENTING RIOJA

“People always ask me what wines I’m most excited about,” writes Senior Correspondent Jason Wilson. to which he invariably responds: “new wave Rioja.” To those not clued in, he reports, “Rioja means a big, oaky red that’s reliable but unexciting, especially in an era when big, oaky reds aren’t in fashion. The wine from Rioja that I’m excited about is something completely different: freshness and energy over wood and power, cool wines grown at higher altitudes, blends of several grapes over monovarietal Tempranillo, a commitment to organic or biodynamic farming, and, most importantly, a sense of place that’s not dictated by barrel aging.”

Read his deep dive into Rioja’s renegade winemakers who are pushing the region to greater heights (literally, in the case of certain vineyards), and don’t miss his tasting notes of recommended bottles from key new wave producers.

PAPPY? PFFT. BUY THESE BOURBONS INSTEAD.

“It’s easy to understand why people love Pappy,” writes our Whiskey Editor Susannah Skiver Barton: it’s delicious, its lineup is studded with seriously-aged bottles, and “It’s hard to get—and scarcity often makes something taste better, right? But there are plenty of ways to get a serious bourbon fix without dropping a few thousand bucks for a bottle of Pappy 15: “Many other really great whiskies are both delicious and ripe for collecting.” Read her comprehensive list of Pappy replacements for a bunch of great ways to blow your bourbon allowance.

YOUR GUIDE TO 2022 WHITE BURGUNDY

Get ready. The latest white Burgundy vintage is a banger. “ At every quality level, the wines are scintillating and a step ahead of the already good to very good reds,” writes Christy Canterbury MW, after her extensive tastings of the vintage. “If the 2021, 2017, and 2014 whites thrill you, this is a “must” vintage.” Count us in, we think, as we sadly survey our rapidly-depleting stash of 2017s. And while you’re at it, check out Christy’s report on 2022 reds as well.

THE STATE OF BEAUJOLAIS

“Buying great Beaujolais today goes beyond identifying Cru appellations or cult producers,” writes Anna Lee Iijima. “Increasingly, it’s a region that rewards recognition of the specificities of terroir and soil,” and knowing the “increasingly ambitious” winemakers making their mark in the place that produces the world’s most joyous wines. Don’t miss her authoritative report that covers all you need to know about Beaujolais–and the fascinating changes brewing that will draw even more attention to it.

HOT TOPICS ON OUR SUBSCRIBER-ONLY SLACK

How to build a case of wine from bottles that cost $35 or less and will all age brilliantly; the etiquette of winery visits; the blended whiskeys in a single-barrel world that you’ll actually want to drink.

WINE DEAL OF THE WEEK*

The excellent 2012 Nebbiolo D’Alba from Flavio Roddolo—the legendary and intensely traditional Piemonte winemaker—is available here for the lowest-in-the-nation price of $69.99. Expect future vintages to be priced significantly higher.  

*NWR is not compensated for the links in this section.  

AROUND THE WINE (AND WHISKEY) WORLD

📉 The rapid fall of a hotly-hyped natural wine style.

☹️ Wine glut in Australia prompts the destruction of “millions’ of vines.

🥃  An expensive bottle of whiskey breaks at an Oscar party, and a friendship hits the rocks.

🌪️ And, since someone just asked us about this: seriously, just don’t.

As always, thanks for reading! See you next week for much more.

Santé!

The NWR Editors

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