The New Wine Review Weekly: April 28, 2024

TRULY GREAT, MOSTLY AFFORDABLE RED BURGUNDY

Let’s start by singing a familiar song:

The issue of pricing is central to every conversation about Burgundy today as the past two decades have seen an unprecedented surge in both interest and prices for the region’s most coveted wines. And many red Burgundy lovers feel left behind as the gap between what’s affordable and what it costs to drink the region’s best wines continues to widen.

But wait! “Burgundy has never been more accessible, and its offerings have never been more value saturated,” contends Jason Jacobeit:

Paying more than $30 “carries us further in Burgundy today than it did 10, 20, or even 30 years ago. We are still in the midst of Burgundy’s qualitative revolution, the most significant in its history. Young producers now taking over have traveled more often and widely, seen more of the winemaking world, and are bringing a more refined ethos to their task. Hygienic standards are higher, vintages are more consistent and harvest dates are far more precisely coordinated.

The result is entry-level wines that often drink a full level up. And better village wines—the strongest 15% or so—that outdrink the overwhelming majority of premier crus produced two decades ago.

And far more importantly, the real stuff that makes us made for Burgundy–great single-vineyard wines that  “tell the story of their vineyards as clearly and as elegantly as do Rousseau’s Chambertin or Roumier’s Musigny” are indeed still out there. Click here to find out where.

GRILLING SEASON DOESN’T REALLY EXIST. HERE ARE WINES FOR IT ANYWAY!

For many of us who love grilling, says Senior Correspondent Jason Wilson,

The whole idea of “grilling season” feels a little imaginary. It presumes a readership consisting only of those in northern climes where winter temperatures hypothetically discourage grilling. Moreover, committed grillers do not pay too much attention to the weather.

But food media has its grilling season playbook down pat.

We start seeing articles in mid-April, usually beginning with annual grill reviews and tips on, say, best barbecue sauces, then move on to recipes for “unusual” things to grill (have you ever grilled a vegetable!? or a peach? you should!). By Memorial Day, there’s a full slate of stories about how to clean your grill and a shoutout to plant-based grilling options, and by the lead-up to July Fourth, we get features about safety, on the dangers of cooking with fire, and of undercooked meat.

At some point during this season, the annual articles on what wines to pair with the food you grill will arrive. So you know what? We’re piling on. As serious grillers ourselves, we’ve got ten great choices for what to drink with your barbecued food. And we’re quite sure you’ll love them, too.

WE ASKED WHISKEY INDUSTRY MOMS WHAT THEY WANT FOR MOTHER’S DAY

Expert Women of the whiskey world: Mother’s Day is almost here. Those in your life wishing to shower you with love and gifts could use some advice. What say you?

• Ashley Frey, Co-Founder of Frey Ranch: Champagne! (Dom Perignon)

• Ann Soh Woods, Founder of Kikori: Champagne! (Jacques Selosse)

• Jane Bowie, Master Blender and Co-Founder of Potter Jane Distillery: Champagne! (Lacourte-Godbillon)

But not everyone wants French bubbles. We spoke to ten of whiskey’s most admired women who ventured suggestions such as 26-year old Laphroaig, pre-Berhnheiim Old Fitzgerald, Glenfiddich 15 Year Solera Reserve and many others. Need ideas? Look here.

WHAT YOU’RE MISSING IN OUR SUBSCRIBERS-ONLY SLACK COMMUNITY

• In ‘n Out + Matthiasson pairings

• Our Whiskey Editor weighs in on port-finished bourbons

• Editors and readers reveal their guilty pleasure wines

• Insider wine bar suggestions for Dallas, Miami and Madrid

• A reader gets advice on where to propose to his girlfriend in Napa(!)

(Click here to get full access!)

WINE DEAL OF THE WEEK*

We’ve made our admiration for new school Burgundy superstar Antoine Lienhardt clear. In addition to his masterful touch with Pinot Noir, he makes an enviable and compulsively drinkable Gamay cuvée–Gamayoptère—available here for $32.95.

*NWR is not compensated for the links in this section.  

AROUND THE WINE (AND WHISKEY) WORLD

❄️ Late spring frost is making everyone very nervous in Germany

😶 Yet another story taking a run at pairing wine with asparagus

📉 Global wine consumption hits its lowest level in 27 years

🇦🇷 What is Paul Hobbs doing in Argentina?

🇮🇱 Israeli wine sales in the U.S. are way up

🏀 A community-building winemaker who averaged 4.5 rebounds per game

As always, thanks for reading! See you next week for much more.

Santé!

The NWR Editors

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